in 1/32 scale
F-16B converting the SUFA Academy kit
... continued from F-16B page B2......
The gear assembly can be slightly improved.
First, reduce the beam part #D27 2 mm in length to get a correct setting of the forward gear nose leg. Academy provides 2 parts for choosing the nose gear door (#D77 / D76) but I could not see a difference. (note that the SUFA has different anit torque parts D31, D32). For the F-16B these seem OK to me.
The nose wheel leg hub on part D11 seems a bit different on the real F-16B. I recommend using nose wheel part D13 instead.
The nose gear bay and door seems OK with the typical lighter style lights (parts L15+D45). This is also appropriate for F-16 MLU types were the lights were placed on the nose gear door to avoid pilot blinding when using MLU night vision goggles. (so if you make a very early block F-16, do not fit these lights but set 2 different type of lights inside the main gear doors).
The main gear
doors were NOT bulged on earlier block F-16's like the F-16B. These are
included in either Academy kit.
But for the F-16B no problem, assemble as shown. On the exhaust panels, decals numbered #K67 could be applied after painting the exhaust.
The airbrakes are OK, but were selected "closed" for this model; if you want to display them open, add a couple of two very tiny spring doors at the hinge base from thin card.
(Steps 18-19 wing assembly was tackled before).
As maybe I want to make in the future
another number of early block F-16 models, I made a rubber mould for the
thin base vertical tail and with resin poured this vertical tail:
On the parachute housing fairing, some small additional fairings are still to be set, using thick pieces of plastic rod sanded in shape. These fairings depend on the air force.
The HUD looks
similar as in the Academy F-16CG/CJ kit. The central cover part
K68 unfortunatley not wide enough at the top, so this was corrected by
cutting a slot and bending the part. The tophousing was made thicker with
piece of card.
You will need to sand and polish the mid moulding ridge in the center. I was not able to get it completely polished smooth to be "unseen" however' ; some distortion is inside the transparant plastic.
The canopy frame has some gaps, fill
these as seen here:
For the F-16B, parts M18 and M19 are not needed. I suggest to use parts D49 for the F-16B MLU.
The remainder SUFA antennas and ECM fairings like the ASPJ antenna are not needed for the F-16B. For the F-16B fix the anti-collision lights parts G10 still found on the sprues, as well as the pitot tube D47.
Now I fitted
the re-enforcements plates at the upper fuselage that were later
MLU modifications including on the F-16B of the Dutch AF. I simple used
the pattern seen here and cut these panels from thick tape. The
tape was cut in shape with a very sharp scalpel knife and than added on
each surface as required.
and the result....
|At the rear of the wing-fuselage
joint, there is a step when fitting the metal part PE5 / PE6. This a radar
absorbing panel. I had to fill the step with putty to get a smooth result.
You can also see the added re-enforcements plates a bit here.
|The major F-16B assembly was ready.
The overall kit was given a coat of light grey to check for any flaws like
unfilled gaps etcetera. After fixing the small problems with putty and
sanding, it was now time to move to applying the other top coats.
For the lower grey Fed.Std. 36375
I used acrylic paint Mr.Color/Gunze Sangyo H308
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Created this page
December 18, 2010