FE.2b "Early" model kit in 1/32 scale of WingNut Wings
War I Aircraft
| The Royal Aircraft
Factory F.E.2 was a two-seat biplane with a pusher propeller. The first
F.E.2a made its maiden flight on 26 January 1915 and first production started
using a Green E.6 engine. It was found to be underpowered, and was re-engined
with a 120 hpBeardmore liquid-cooled inline engine. The type
was used during the first world war, mostly as a day and night bomber but also as "a fighter" by the Royal Flying Corps. It was a large aircraft with a gunner seated in front of the pilot in an open tub.
The RAF FE.2b, meaning T"he Royal Aircraft Factory Farman Experimental 2B", was a mild update to the FE.2a that became available later in 1915. It was again powered by a Beardmore, initially the 120 hp version while later F.E.2bs received the 160 hp Beardmore. There were some differences in FE.2b', referred to as "Early" and "Late" mainly in armament and landing gear struts.
Wingnut Wings issued this kit FE.2b “Early” (no.32014) end of 2011. All parts are very crispy moulded and the box is really full.
Extra plastic parts allow variations
in gear, guns, bombs and other slight details. The wires are not
in the kit, this has to be sourced by the modeller him/herself.
Some view of the parts......
The scheme "E" was choosen for a RFC
22 squadron machine (drawing from and courtesy WingNut Wings):
Next, I recommend to strengten up
the joint between the lower wing sections as seen in STEP 10. Small holes
were drilled in the wing lips of wing sections F4, F6 to receive metal
pins to get a stronger joint later on. This is accurate work but worthwhile
to PREVENT breaking up the wings at a later stage while handling the model!
Drill the holes in the wing for the controls and upper wing pulleys A31, A45 as seen in step 14 .
So, contrary to usual model builds, painting was to be started with. After deciding what scheme and FE.2b aircraft would be made, the colour instructions were very well studied. For this FE.2b model the scheme "E" of the RFC 22 squadron was choosen.
So, individual parts were to be airbrushed/
painted while still in their sprues. This enables handling and painting
to be much easier. Where possible, of most parts their moulding stubs/gates
were removed keeping the limited amount to hold them in their sprues. With
a razorsaw, like the one of TIGER,
saw off the moulding gates and sand off any irregularities.
Once this was done, it was time for
the colour choices.
The Harder Steinbeck airbrush was used troughout for the base colours.
- let dry for at least 72 hours.
The large wing panels also got their
paint, they were separated from the sprues at this point.
Also, the crew nacelle/fuselage inner
and outher surfaces got the paints. For scheme "E" mostly outside the PC10
Following the exact numbered steps in the order as suggested by the WingNut Wings instructions is not recommended as some troubles will arise than later on. Here, some suggestions are made for the assembly steps.
Do not forget to first fit part A18
bulkhead to A17 before adding the footplates A21. Also add the compass
A27 or map H4 as desired.
STEP 6 : gear struts: Leave for a later stage!
STEP 7: leave for a later stage.
The rocker arms E15 were a bit too long for a perfect fit, adjust as needed. Also, remove 2 mm from waterpipe part E2.
Indeed, fit at this stage the engine
to the nacelle top as later on the engine is almost unreachable!
On to next [ Page
- Windsock Datafile 147 - FE.2b by Paul R Hare, Albatros Productions Ltd. U.K.
- Windsock Datafile 018 - RAF FE.2b , by J. M. Bruce.
- the booklet with the Wingnut Wings kit !!!
- the WingNut Wings website with additional info
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Created this page
Sept 20, 2013